Costuming Society of America Western Regional Symposium

On March 17, 2012, I joined Doreen Beard-Simpkins and Nancy Keller-Scholz to present a talk at a symposium of the Costume Society of America, Western Region.  The symposium's theme was “Interpreting History through Costume.”

Our talk was titled A Lady’s Layers at English Camp: 2011 Meets 1860.  It was a “presentation about a presentation” that was made at English Camp in the San Juan Islands, wherein a member of English Camp’s visiting audience was sought as a model willing to be dressed in period clothing.  Out of many willing volunteers, a model was chosen and asked to stand upon a box in shorts and a tank top.  She was then dressed by us in proper ladies attire of the 1860’s.  This included a chemise, corset, petticoats, drawers, undersleeves, dress, collar, parasol and shawl.  The model also had her hair done in an appropriate 1860’s style.  The result never failed to have the model assume proper manner and deportment.  The casual slouch of modernity was replaced by an elegant air of feminine gentility.  Our newly attired lady was ready for visiting or a pleasure excursion.  While we did not replicate this exercise at the symposium, we were allowed to present a power point show of it.

The audience at the English Camp presentations was enthusiastic about learning about what goes into the proper silhouette of a lady of fashion in the 1860’s.  Many questions at English Camp were asked and it allowed us to dispel myths and concerns regarding corsets, heat prostration, and trips to the necessary.  The presentation’s appeal crossed the boundaries of age, gender and social class.  We found that our presentation at English Camp made the reenactors more approachable to visitors who were afraid to ask questions.

The Costume Society’s conference included other talks, including a comparison of costumes worn for performances of “The School for Scandal” by Corrine Larson.  The presenter showed how men of the theatre are better believed when dressed in a historically correct manner, but the theatrical costumers prefer to dress the women in current fashions and pass them off as historic with a few token ringlets.  Other talks included discussions of Mexican rebozos, Indian saris, Greek identity in the 19^th century, and researching a mysterious French designer named Rouff.

The conference was held in Santa Clarita, California at the ranch of William S. Hart, a silent movie actor who was film’s first cowboy.  We toured his ranch house and saw artifacts not only of his movie career, but also his extensive collection of Western artwork, including many by his friend Charles Russell.  

The conference organizers included curators from the Smithsonian Museum and National History Museum of Los Angeles.  The National History Museum of LA loaned the conference artifacts, including a hat worn by Thomas Jefferson, gloves worn by Jefferson Davis, a vest worn by Charlie Chaplin, a helmet from Max Sennett’s Keystone Cops, and brain-tanned Indian child’s pants made by Oklahoma Indians that were also worn in early films.  We saw many artifacts not only from the William S. Hart films, but also from the current Academy Award winners Hugo and The Artist.

Hat worn by Thomas Jefferson

Vest worn by Charlie Chaplin

Keystone Cops helmet

We were treated to a screening of William S. Hart’s last movie, Tumbleweeds, made in 1929.  Accompanying the film was a live piano player.  Thrills!  Spills!  Daring rescues! 

Fort Nisqually was prominently represented, and many people were eager to learn more about and visit our site.  Nancy Keller-Scholz brought Fort Nisqually brochures that were featured on the registration table.  It is hoped that our journey allowed the name of Fort Nisqually to be more widely recognized, and has stirred curiosity among a wide variety of curators and costuming professionals.